March 27, 2025

Hello from Lisbon!

It's weird to type that, after a year and a half of work to go through the visa process. I actually have a draft blog detailing our whole ordeal, and I do mean ordeal. I'm dying to publish it, because we all know how popular those Netflix specials about European/Chinese/American government bureaucracy are. Unfortunately our paperwork drama is not over yet, but more on that later!

We actually didn't go directly from China to Portugal. It included a 4 day stopover in Bangkok, which was brief for sure, but we also lived there for 5 years - so, we're not exactly tourists. We saw a few new things that had popped up, mostly incredibly fancy malls. Man, Bangkok really knows how to do malls. The newest, shiniest is called Icon Siam. There is a floating market inside the mall, full of restaurants and shops. Is it incredibly shiny and Disney-fied? Yes. But is it good? Also yes. I'm going to throw some photos on Facebook, because really this place is very beautiful. We ate so much, and enjoyed how far our yuan would go before venturing out in Euro-land. In particular I had to get some Khao Soi, my favorite Thai food. For those not in the know, it's a northern Thai chicken curry soup - with a mix of cooked and crispy noodles. It was a bit pricey at 90 baht (~$3), and you can get one in a market for half that. But I was hungry, and it was there, and it had a Michelin rating.

A lot of Bangkok was reminiscing. We spent a good amount of time at Terminal 21, because it was conveniently (or purposely) near our hostel. I did the math, and no joke, I've probably eaten there 500+ times. I used to teach nearby a few times a week after work, and then I would meet Ella on Saturday when she taught nearby - so that food court is kind of my 2nd home. It's also still the best deal in Bangkok, with amazing food for under $2 a plate. We even went back to where Ella and I first met. It used to be a bakery chain called Bread Talk, unfortunately long gone from that location. It's now a dumpling/ramen shop, but looking at old photos we found the exact spot where she and I sat. And well, the rest is history.

Other than eating, we did walk around some old streets, including an artist village that has changed a lot since 8 years ago. But we also had a chance to meet with friends. We still know a lot of good folks in Bangkok, and we tried our best to squeeze as many as possible in. It wasn't easy, having only 3 full days plus everything else we wanted to do. But I also know we'll be back. Ella and I had talked for years about after we retire, we'll move back to Thailand, maybe somewhere quiet Hua Hin, and open a coffee shop or hostel. But honestly, walking around Bangkok, I think we may end up there instead. I don't know, everything just felt so right. The energy, the people, it really felt like home - much more than any other place I've lived, the US included. I don't know if anyone else visiting there would have the same kind of feeling that Ella and I do. But if you've never been to Bangkok before, you really should. It's chaotic, fun, and full of happy people.




But you could go back from 2013-2018 to see what I have to say about Thailand, so lets talk about Portugal. Somehow, the cheapest ticket from Bangkok to Lisbon was on Etihad. I was a little excited, because I had never flown on a Middle Eastern airline before. And yeah, they were pretty nice. While not incredibly spacious or luxurious, the biggest plus for me was the food. They really knocked it out of the park, and I maintain the cheese omelette was the best omelette I've ever had, plane or not. Unfortunately our connection in Abu Dhabi was brief, so all I got to see of that place is its very, very shiny airport.

Arriving in the morning, we didn't have anything to do for a few hours before meeting the landlord and signing the lease. In fact, we just waited at the train station, despite not catching a train, because it's a comfortable public area just a few minutes from our place. Which, we've really been batting a thousand with apartment choices. In Shanghai we decided the first place we saw was the best, and it was the same in Lisbon. I really, really like where we live. It's in Alfama, a very popular tourist neighborhood because of the hills and trams. Lots of people are milling around outside taking photos of the street, and I guess inadvertently of me because I like hanging out by the window. We're also just a few minutes walk from the main train station and a metro, so I'm very happy in that regard.

However, we have actually done very little in Lisbon that would be noteworthy. Most of our first week has just been trying to get settled - cleaning, getting utilities set up, registering with immigration, getting life supplies, etc.. Plus fighting jetlag and learning Portuguese, it has been a busy time. Like, we did not have a single kitchen knife. You would think any grocery store would have knives, and you'd be wrong. Instead we had to go to three different shops before we found anything. The really nice surprise was when we went to a city a few hours away for immigration, and ran into a Chinese bazaar. We came back from that trip with bags full of random stuff, because in true Chinese fashion, everything there cost half of what it does in a European shop. Somewhere in our getting settled time, we met up with a friend from Cincinnati that lives here in Lisbon, and that was incredibly fortunate. She has been a continuous source of answers to our dumb questions, and showing us how the locals drink wine in the park.

The good news is that I'm a (temporary) resident now, but since Ella applied as a dependent (long story), hers is pending - I need to get my permanent card first. But we'll get there, a little bit at a time. Until then, maybe better to just share some photos of our new home and neighborhood. Hopefully in the next few weeks I'll have something a bit more exciting to talk about. But until then we have space to host guests, so feel free to stop by.







March 8, 2025

Farewell, China.

Well, farewell for now. This isn't the first time I've left China, but now that I'm married to someone from there, I will certainly be back. But amazingly Ella's visa was granted, and we are starting our new lives in Portugal. Before we get to that, I need to say a (temporary) goodbye to this place.

When I first left Mainland China back in 2012, I never really expected to return here. But along my journey of moving onto Taiwan, Thailand, Vietnam (briefly) and Thailand again, I met the most amazing person ever, who just so happened to be Chinese. I would have followed her literally anywhere, but with both of us feeling we wanted a change from Bangkok, we settled on Guangzhou.

It was an interesting 2 years there. We met some amazing people, and some lifelong friends. But at the same time, it never really felt like "home" to us. I think we both knew early on this was a temporary stopover. Ella especially changed a lot during that time, learning a lot about what she wants, and especially doesn't want, career wise. The one highlight of Guangzhou for us was the Xiaobei District, which is a working-class neighborhood full of immigrants mostly from Africa and India. It's not a place that tourists usually go, but we found ourselves spending almost every weekend there. And maybe this island of a different culture in the middle of a Chinese city let us realize what's important to us - we like international places. Certainly Bangkok had plenty, it being one of the most visited cities in the world. Guangzhou wasn't it, but we still had a lot of great memories.

I mean, getting married was the #1 memory.
Loved Nansha Temple
So pretty!
When mom and dad visited.
Good folks. All of em.

We fit in much better in Shanghai. It is maybe the only place other than Beijing where you can have some Biang Biang Noodles from Shaanxi Province, then walk across the street and get a taco. We met people from all around the world there, and it felt like home. There was a thought in the back of my mind that I may spend decades, or even the rest of my life here. And it would be possible. It does have the largest 2nd largest metro system in the world, a title it constantly trades with Beijing. The weather is usually nice, it's well connected, has lots to do, and is overall a nice place to live. But everything changed when the Fire Nation atta... I mean, when COVID happened. I don't want to dwell on COVID and the lockdown, I've certainly done plenty of that. But I think like a lot of people, that was a bit of an inflection point. We certainly had a lot of time to think. And that maybe China wasn't the perfect spot for us. Or at least, we needed a backup. Ella was quite taken with eastern Europe during our trip last year, so that seemed like a good enough place to try. After a lot of research, we found Portugal's visa was possible, and the rest is history.
 

Another wedding!
 
Many of our weekends

Zhujiajiao is really beautiful

The last night before lockdown

The first picture of freedom. My long hair!

More good people

Will miss this crazy crew

The "potentially deadly" hotpot
Sort of. I think I could also count Qujing, Yunnan as another place I've lived. We planned on moving here for a month or two to sort out the visa, but it turned out to be 8. Crazy to think that I lived in Hangzhou and Taipei only 4 months longer than here. But while I had been here many times to visit family, it was never a long trip. It has been interesting living with the mother and father in-law all that time. They are lovely people, and we had some great moments together. Hearing stories of young Ella, making people laugh when I speak the Qujing dialect, and since I'm probably the only foreigner within a 100km radius, I'm the "foreign diplomat" to explain whenever the US does something weird. But Qujing is too small, too quiet, for us - I mean, the extent of international food is one of two McDonald's in the city. It is a very chill place though, and working a few years in a western country or Shanghai may give you enough money to retire here. I mean, rent is $250 a month, and a meal in a local restaurant is $1.50. To process the visa, we had to make a lot of trips to the capital, Kunming. And I do mean a lot. But Kunming is a super cool place. Part of it is just in comparison to Qujing, but similar to Guangzhou's African community, it also has its own pocket of "internationality" with the Southeast Asian community. In truth we didn't really do much that was notable in Kunming - ate and drank, went to a few museums and temples. It even snowed one day, which was actually really lovely. But there's just something unique about Kunming, maybe because Yunnan itself is unique. For example they eat a lot of goat cheese, flowers, and all sorts of mushrooms, which is unusual even for China. There are countless wild mushroom hotpots, packed with people, and we gave it a try on one of our visits. It's a bit daunting, because they don't even give you utensils at first - you have to wait 18 minutes before eating to make sure a bad one didn't slip in. And they take a sample of your food, with your phone number, just in case. So, that's an experience.

So while we liked Kunming, at the same time we acknowledged it would be too small for us, and be only a year or two stopover. I think finally, it is time to move on. Certainly I will be back to Yunnan. Ella's parents aren't going anywhere. But I'd like to end with some of my favorite photos of my time here, to remember just how special of a place China is to me. See you again soon.


Getting Chinese married

Loved this Dali cable car

Dali Old Town

Dressing up in the Stone Forest

Luoping is one of the most beautiful places I've ever been

Kunming's normally lovely weather

... and that weather can change to snow in a week.

See you next time, mom and dad.