Pictured: What 99% of what North Korea looks like.

My first full day in the DPRK.

I have learned something very dear to me on this trip. I like cold weather. I do not like however, being cold. I like how I look in a coat, I like snow, I like drinking hot drinks, I like bundling up and hurling out the door like a brave adventurer ready to take on the world.

The thing is though, the cold comes to an end. You get in your car and after a few, the heater starts to warm you up. You go into a nice warm building where you can enjoy yourself. In the DPRK, there is no rest from the cold. You are cold when you get up, you are cold when you go into overly lofty, drafty, unheated buildings. You are cold when you eat your cold food on a cold plate in coldlandia. And finally, you are cold when you go to sleep at night.

So forgive me if I don't have the most positive opinion of things right now.

The days journey was to the DMZ, which was much easier than the trip on the south side. There are no documents, bus swaps, or anything of the sort. You kind of just... show up. There are a few checkpoints but they pretty much just wave everyone through. You get a senior solider and guard assigned to you, walk across the northern boundry, get back in the bus, and drive the last 500 meters or so. You get treated to 2 buildings on this side, where the sides met to end the war, and the actual table where it was signed. They told us to sit down, and I just happened to sit in the middle on one side. The guard told us the seat where I was sitting is the exact chair where the American Supreme Commander sat. It was rather humbling, actually.

After we went to the place where the document was signed. We actually ran into the German Ambassador to the DPRK on the trip, and he asked an interesting question. They say "American imperialists" this, "American imperialists" that, but he pointed out it was a UN Coalition. What about the other countries involved against the DPRK?

He paused for a second, and responded "The Americans tricked the other countries to support them. No one would ever attack the peaceful DPRK, etc etc" Interesting. Ballsy. Then again, what are they gonna do? Deport the diplomat?

There was a stop in the marble building overlooking the actual border, as seen from the South Korean side. This building is a shell with nothing in it. It does have a great balcony to oversee the line, and we could see a South Korean led group of westerners. We gave them (subdued) waves, which guards on both sides didn't really like.

I asked our guide about the village the DPRK has in the DMZ. She said it is a farming community of 100 families, we can have it since ROK does, etc etc. Fair enough. The village in question is the so called propaganda village, where telescopes reveal they are buildings with no backs, electricity on timers, basically a sham. What I didn't expect is to see another, actual village in the DMZ. With actual fields, people, and in general looking like the real thing that has copies across the countryside. I don't think I'm revealing some huge national secret (at least I hope not), but there are two villages in the DPRK DMZ. UN, the ball is in your court.

Right so, on the way we stopped at a photo op, nothing big. We also went to a restaurant with the famous dog soup. One of our other dealies was cancelled so we went to a Pleasure House. It's not what you think. It's barber shops, pools, gymnasiums, that sort of thing. I got a haircut and my beard shaved. (gasp). I am now beardless again, because I figured, how often can one say they got shaved in North Korea? The guide said it was the first time any tour group had been there.

After we went to a restaurant that was slightly better but not great. To be honest I don't really like Korean food, even when I was in the ROK.

The interesting thing about Pyongyang at night is that it is DARK. Like, really dark. The city just turns off, and you are shuttled about with absolutely zero bearings. There are no landmarks. There are hardly any cars. Its just you, alone, in the black. (Tell them I ain't comin' back – woo Firefly!) It's an interesting feeling, and pokes holes in the canvas they have put up for you. The random power blackouts too. Those help. More on that later.

Anyway this has been long enough so I'm going to call it here. Tomorrow we're going around Pyongyang, to fully take in its greatness.

Traffic was a problem when taking this photo. I swear, there was a car like, every 30 minutes.