Hey all, been a while. I haven't really updated since Ella and I moved to Thailand, so let's catch everyone up! As is the namesake of this blog, I'm going to divide it into three parts: why Thailand has been in the news lately, our life in Bangkok, and our recent travels here.

Part I: What are Thailand and Cambodia Doing?

<shrug>

Like so many problems in the world, it all comes down to Europeans drawing lines on maps. And I find border disputes particularly fascinating, as I previously wrote during COVID lockdown (oh what a strange time that was). But to massively summarize: some 100 years ago, Thailand and France (who controlled Cambodia at the time), had disagreements on where the border was. So they said "let's sit down and figure this out". They wrote up a treaty that said that the border should try to follow along natural features, and everyone was like great, lets do it. The two sides hired a survey team both were happy with, and they made a map. They then submitted this map to the relevant authorities and said "Yup, this is the map, all hunky dory." Except the map had an oversight, and didn't exactly follow the treaty. There's this historical temple on top of a cliff, overlooking the south (Cambodia), and so is only accessible from the north (Thai) side. Following the natural course should have definitely put it on the Thai side, but an oversight on the map had the border cut across the cliff, putting the temple on Cambodia's side.

Fast forward 50-some years, what with WWII and the Khmer Rouge, this issue was kind of put on the back burner. Both sides agreed to petition the ICJ to resolve it and abide by the ruling. The ICJ said "Well, that map has been the official map for a long time, and you haven't brought it up before, meaning you kind of accepted it. So we side with Cambodia." That wasn't what Thailand wanted to here, so they chose not to abide by the ruling. They argued the map was invalid because of the words in the treaty, so they petitioned again decades later. The ICJ again sided with Cambodia, and again, Thailand chose to ignore that. Both countries have had this tit for tat for a while, but it was usually just empty words. Unfortunately it got serious this time, and we can only hope that things resolve quickly. I mean, I can understand both sides here, because there is a discrepancy - but I also like to think that this is something that could be solved by reasonable people sitting down and having a chat. For now there is a cease fire, and it seems like it is on the path to getting resolved. Regardless, we're far, far away from all that trouble here in the Bangkok.

Part II: Life

I ended the last blog briefly mentioning we found an apartment and jobs. To start with the apartment, it's seconds from a metro station, so I'm a big fan - actually it's on the transfer point between two metro lines, and we can be downtown in 20 minutes. There's a 7-11 downstairs, multiple restaurants, a 24/7 grocery store, and a Tesco just around the corner, so overall it's one of the more accessible places I've ever lived. And even though I'm not much of a swimmer, I do admit that the infinity pool here looks pretty cool. There's a good chance I'm there while writing this, because there's such a nice breeze and view of the metro. Overall it's a lovely place, and probably 1/10th the price of what you'd pay in the US. It's on the way from the airport, so stop in if you're ever on this side of the world.

For jobs, Ella officially starts tomorrow, and in fact she had to go back to China to process her visa. That means we were sadly separated for about 3 weeks, and I had to get everything set up here myself. I felt like a crazy person walking down the sidewalk carrying a microwave with a broom sticking out of my backpack, but as you do. Thankfully she is back now, enjoying her last bit of freedom. She's teaching English at a university not far from our apartment, hopefully to very polite students. So far the staff has been incredibly kind to her, so she is excited to begin. Fingers crossed this one turns out better, although she always did like teaching at her previous university job.

As for my job, hoo boy. I'm somehow the Head of School/Principal for a new international school opening at the end of August. While I have some experience in that, it's definitely a big step up, and I constantly have imposter syndrome. I didn't even apply for this job, I was just searching to be a teacher. But then right as I reached out to them, the previous head was on his way out. They asked since I have more experience than everyone else, if I would be interested. It's a lot to take in, and a lot more to do. But I'm cautiously optimistic we can get it done on time. I'd say my biggest whiplash is hiring teachers, as I myself was on the other side of the interview process just weeks ago.

Perhaps more silly than this

And if I can say, I now can really sympathize with HR personnel. For one teaching advert, we've probably received 500 applications from all around the world. It is a full time job to sort through them, not counting the hundred other things I need to do. Also, did you know that some people are just nuts? After being on the other side of the review process, I realize that I need to get some drinks with HR people more often, because I'd imagine they've got some crazy stories. As for my limited experience, things I've seen so far include:

• Resumes with egregious spelling/grammar mistakes, applying to teach English
• Just terrible formatting decisions - such as one person who wrote in bright red text on a neon yellow background.
• People with no teaching background or experience, in another country, saying how it is their dream to have this kind of job. Cool, and even though I'm impressed by your 20 year career as an infrastructure engineer, I don't see how that's relevant for teaching English to 7 year olds.  
• It's kind of standard in Asia to have a photo on your resume, and they ranged from odd (finger guns, or showing off their "gains" at the gym) to wildly unprofessional (swimsuit photos or sexy dresses).
• For an interview, one person spent quite a bit of time telling me about their conspiracy theory where the world was going to literally end. They asked if it would be an issue to have one day off to prepare for that. The details were very TMI.
• Another person who showed up in a T-shirt that said "Hire me - why?" Attire aside, I asked them about their teaching philosophy. They said all kids are bad. If they listen, it will be a good class. If they do not listen, it will be a bad for everyone. Yikes.
• One person ended the interview by saying they are satisfied (great!). And they will tell me next week if they accept the job (I haven't offered it yet?), and what their work hours will be (what?!)

So yeah, it's been a thing. Hopefully the next update I'll have more to say. I try to remind myself that I don't have to do this, I can easily go back to just teaching without so much mental burden - like China, there is no shortage of positions. But at the same time, this is a new challenge that is a big jump in my career. I'll just try my best to hold on. Will I get fired? Will it crash and burn? I dunno. I'll give it a go and see what happens.

Part III: Travel

Alright, finally the good part! Our first journey was to the other side of the river, to Thonburi. Even though Thonburi is part of Bangkok (and in fact, was the capital of Thailand before Bangkok), we never often went there. To be honest, this is probably only the 3rd or 4th time. But Ella found an artist village attached to a floating market, which is kind of the most Thai thing ever. Klong Bang Luang is a bit off the tourist trail, but infinitely more accessible now with the new MRT Blue Line extension. I wouldn't say it is anything too special, but is a great example of how Thailand does markets so well - lots of little shops selling unique things, with Thailand's eclectic yet functional style. There were people at the artist village staying there as a homestay, both foreigners and locals, working on their projects. While that didn't appeal to me as much, the canal and market were both really nice, with some great coffee and food to boot.

After, we took a walk to another temple nearby. I think I've gone on record to say "If you've seen one Wat, you've seen 99% of them". Which is true, however, I have also said "I am a sucker for the world's blankiest blank". Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen holds the record for the largest buddha statue in Bangkok - so while not the world, I'll take it. It's actually not even finished yet, but its visage looms large over the temple, and to be honest, the entire neighborhood. There's not much to do except feel intimidated by this 10 story tall figure, but definitely worth a stop if you're in the neighborhood.

And rounding out Thonburi was a very interesting surprise - from Portugal no less. The Baan Kudichin Museum is totally free, and documents the little community of Portuguese who lived in Bangkok about 500 years ago. They arrived as traders, but when war broke out, they took up arms to help defend the kingdom. The king rewarded them with a little enclave to call their own. Also of interest to me, the museum talks about how these traders added Portuguese vocabulary to the Thai language - for example, "soup" in Portuguese is sabão, and Thai is sabu. The Portuguese are also the source of the Thai word "farang", something that many expats in Thailand are very familiar with - because it is what they call white foreigners. The Portuguese borrowed the Persian word "farangi", which means "Franks (Germans) of Europe", but Thailand took it to mean all white people of European descent. Anyway, many people that live in the village now are descendants of that group, who make Thai food with a Portuguese flair. We ate a local place, that as far as I can find, is the only "Portuguese" restaurant in Bangkok. For $2.50, it's a welcome change from the 10 euros plus we used to pay in Lisbon.

Back on the side of the river, we visited something I've walked past probably 100 times without realizing it - in Benchakitti Park, there is a warehouse that looks well... like a warehouse. Certainly not the most inviting place for people, you'd think maybe it's storage for landscaping equipment and maybe some offices. While it does seem to be under construction, there is a museum of sorts inside, that contains a giant scale model of Bangkok. It's similar in size to the one in Shanghai, and while very cool, that's sort of all there is to do? But it just goes to show you, that Bangkok is full of surprises. I literally worked across the street from this place and never knew about it. Actually when Ella and I were dating, we found a blog titled "100 hidden things to do in Bangkok", and probably 75% we hadn't heard of before. We went to one of them nearly every weekend, and there's still probably a dozen or two left. It may be time for a revival or expanded list.

Whew! I think that's enough for now. We had some great friends visit recently, and had a chance to get some food from them. Plus, two more friends are moving here next week. As much as I like Shanghai, I love how Bangkok seems to be the interchange station for the world. But I think a good way to end things today is to mention the most famous site in Bangkok - some motorcycle taxi drivers adopted a stray cat, and added her as a tourist attraction on Google Maps. They even gave her a little motorcycle taxi jacket, which is just too cute. She's very chill, and loves to eat cat treats from 7-11, so if you're in Asok make sure to stop and say hi to Ma Win.