January 3, 2016

Welcome back to China!

This was an unusual trip for me. More like a family reunion, we went to see Ella's relatives for Christmas. Not because they celebrate Christmas, because we both had time off.

So off we go to Kunming Airport, in Yunnan Province. You've probably never heard of it, but it's the 4th busiest airport in China. Behind Beijing, Shanghai, and I'm not sure of number 3... Guangzhou? Chongqing? Anyway, a lot of people come through here. It's actually far south, neighboring Laos and Myanmar. But after landing, we grabbed the train to Qujing, Ella's home.

Qujing is probably considered a small to medium city, with about 2 million people. I know that sounds insane. But for reference, you can walk across downtown. And there is 1 KFC. Meanwhile, in Bangkok there is 1 KFC per block. They like to build up in China, with massive apartment complexes. When every building in the city is 25+ stories, they don't really look out of place or overly impressive.

Anyway we arrived of course, and were met at the train station by Ella's mom and dad. They're both very sweet, dare I say fairly typical Asian parents. Dad commented that the scotch I brought for him was too weak after downing a glass of it. Then smoked a cigarette and went to work. Mom on the other hand, believes that if you have not eaten a grocery store's worth of food, you will die of starvation within moments. Therefore, the only solution is to put food in your bowl for you.

I got a bit of a culture shock here, even having experienced China before. For one, it's cold. Just a little above freezing, which is nice after the heat of Thailand. They also do that weird thing here where they keep windows open. Something about fresh air. I didn't understand it in Hangzhou, I don't understand it here. But in Hangzhou, the homes and stores had heaters. Here, nope. It's not that easy to enjoy dinner when you're sitting in a freezer. At least showers are hot, it gives some reprieve from the cold.

It's a big test of my Chinese ability here, because Ella's parents usually do not speak Mandarin Chinese. Mom is very nice and will switch when talking to me, but Dad doesn't really know how to speak it. They speak the Yunnan dialect of Chinese, while mostly similar, is different enough to be confusing.

Anyway, what have we been doing? To be honest not much. Mostly eating. And visiting people. And more eating. And then going to the grocery store, for more eating. We've seen a few minor points of interest in the city, like a park with an art exhibition in it. Like in Xiaoshan, I'm sort of the subject of attention here. There's very few foreigners in the city, probably less than 10. So lots of staring. And in the case of the artists selling their stuff, not-so-stealthy photos of me looking at things. Which I'm sure will appear on their next catalog.

We went to Qujing's south gate one day, an impressive and large wall as is often the case in China. They're super good at building walls. And ya know what? I didn't see any Mongolians invading. So apparently it's working.

We hiked up a hill for the view, and took a walk through a very pretty park to find a sort of fun fair for kids. We saw an advert for a 7D movie, which I guess means in addition to travelling through time, it utilizes string theory. While there someone told us that 7D is for chumps, he has a 9D movie.

Okay China. Dimensions have defined meanings, you can't just add them as you want. Hell why stop at 9, I'm going to open a godamn 100D movie. Anyway you basically put on 3D goggles from the Atari dimension and sit in a chair that moves to the movie. At least it should, but the movements had fuck all to do with what I was seeing. Weird to say the least.

After we saw some monkies and went to the zoo. Asian zoos are always a little depressing. Like in the last blog, animal rights are pretty unheard of, much less regulation. This one wasn't too bad, except for the monkies inside who were confined to a very small, wet cage with nothing to do. The lion and tiger also were a bit cramped. But everything else was more or less alright, and they had some wolves. I tried howling, and to my surprise they actually howled back. It wasn't long before the 3 of them were howling up a storm, and we could still hear them going after we had left.

The next day, we took a walk around the old town with Ella's old friend, Tadpole. Or at least that's her nickname, in Chinese. We had lunch, did some shopping, and wound up in the most luxurious KTV I've ever been in. This was straight out of the Donald Trump dimension, with marble floors, chandeliers, and lots of expensive looking art scattered around. It was quite ostentatious, even if it was fake. They had an amazing selection of music, quite beyond what any place in Thailand has. Like Walk The Moon. That was an unexpected find.

Thoroughly drunk, the next day we went to the big tourist attraction of Yunnan, The Stone Forest. Basically a bunch of interesting looking stones that shoot up from the ground like trees, it really is quite impressive despite its boring sounding description. On arrival they had folks letting you borrow traditional Yunnan clothes for a few bucks, which was fine because we got some great photos. As is usual for places like this, I don't have much to say except it was beautiful and to look at these pictures.
















On the way back we stopped at a smallish temple which turned out to be a large and pretty temple. I of course took some photos, and some dude yelled at me in Yunnanese to stop. Of course I didn't know what that meant so I just kept doing it. Then Ella translated for me, and I chose again to ignore it because hey, I don't speak that language. Keeping this beautiful thing train going (god that was a bad segue), we visited Dad's workshop. Dad teaches deaf students how to do things, like woodworking and art. His students made some amazingly beautiful things, which is to be expected because he's no slouch himself. A lot of the work is his own, and his and Mom's artwork hangs around their house. Mom even tutors in art on the side. Now I know where Ella gets her talent.

That night was New Years, so I definitely wanted to go out to the bar to celebrate. Bar, singular. I exaggerate but there is really a single small street with 4 small bars the size of a dorm room. And that's about it for Qujing nightlife. We quickly downed our cocktails from one bar before hopping next door. When midnight came, it was quite anticlimactic. I had a clock out, and of course did a countdown. And then midnight came.. and nobody gave a single shit. I heard one glass clink, and I imagine the conversation went along the lines of,



"I say Ping, it appears to be midnight."

"Oh right you are Li. Shall we clink glasses?"

"I suppose that would be acceptable."

<clink>

"Quite."

"Quite."

We had to wake up at 630 the next morning to catch the train back to Kunming, so we left shortly after that. A few people asked for photos with me on the way out, because foreigners seem to be unicorns around here. After an early rise and staying goodbye to Mom and Dad, it was off to Kunming!

December 20, 2015

(spoiler free)

Dun-dun-dun-da, duhhhh! Dun-da-da-dah, dah. Dun-dun-da dah, daaah! Oh yeah, Star Wars!

Because of rampant piracy, movies tend to come out a few days earlier in Asia. Which means I got to see Star Wars a bit before everyone else, and play my Star Wars hipster card. Please. I knew all about Finn and Rey before it was cool. Which overall, it was pretty good! I mean, it's not Episodes IV, V, and VI. But still, an enjoyable movie that I will probably go see again before it leaves theaters. Certainly not quite the disappointment Episode I was. Although honestly, they could make Hello Kitty Star Wars and I'd go to see that opening night.


So in keeping with the spirit of Star Wars, they opened the Star Wars Experience on Siam Square. Basically it's not much except a giant TIE Fighter, and a big promo for the movie. There's a few models and mock-ups, some merch, and excuses to show the trailer. And of course massively overpriced popcorn. But still, it was kind of nice to see a 1/1 scale Jabba the Hutt. As nice as that can be.

Baska waki too-len mai ley! Hoo hoo hoo hoo...

Okay adventure time! As always, not too much as of late. The standard going out on the weekend, getting a beer, that sort of thing. Lately there's been some karaoke, which is always fun. Especially at the Japanese district, who are just incredibly polite, stand-up people. I was thinking though, how similar Japanese and Taiwanese are. Which is great. But as I complained in Taiwan, they are incredibly nice, and kind, but it's really hard to make friends with them. Perhaps I'm being too judgmental. But you can have a great night with someone, and then they just sort of disappear without exchanging contact information. Like at karaoke, I sat next to this super cool guy. New to the city, very friendly. Then I turn around, just to have him wave goodbye while not breaking his stride to the door. Hmpf. Ah well then!

Someone from back in the US told me they have little perspective on how much things cost there. And it really depends on what you want. If you want western stuff, pretty much the same as in the US. But, keeping in mind the average salary is probably half or less than half of a US salary. At present, $1 is about 35 Thai Baht. So, here's some prices for stuff:

Bottle of Water - 7 B
Can of cola - 10 B
Bag of chips - 10 B
Bread (half loaf) - 15 B
Eggs (dozen) - 35 B
Milk (liter) - 40 B
Beer - 35 B
Beer (bar) - 60 B
Simple cocktail - 80 B
Subway Ride - 20-45 B
Cheap Meal - 30 B
Average Restaurant - 50 B
Fancy Meal - 100 B
Western Fast Food Meal - 120-170B
Average Western Meal - 250 B
Hostel - 150-200 B

Of course, the sky can be the limit. In general I spend about 2000-2500 B a week, which includes going out for 1 or 2 decent meals and drinks on Saturday. Rent is about 4500 B a month, not including utilities. Although I'm sure some people would think I live like a pauper (What?! There isn't a subway station outside your front door?! You don't have a maid?!), it's quite comfortable for me. The real advantage is being an AirAsia hub. You can get pretty much everywhere in SE Asia for 2000 B. Can't beat that.

Now, for adventures! We recently made the trek out to Samut Prakan. Samut Prakan is an area south of Bangkok, near the Gulf of Thailand. No beaches (that I know of), it's pretty much just a suburb, albeit one I have never been to. It has two things of note: one spot is the Samut Prakan Crocodile Farm. I have heard nothing but horror stories about this place. In Asia, animal rights are like "Animal huh?" So, lots of cramped dirty cages, and you can buy chickens to throw at the crocodiles. Part of me has some sick curiosity to go see it. Maybe one day I will take the moral hit and do it. But that was not our destination today. We went to see the Ancient City, which is an odd sort of place. Some, I would assume eccentric, Thai guy decided he wanted to build a scale model of Thailand. So he did. And then made tiny replicas of the famous landmarks around Thailand. So he did. And then wanted to charge foreigners extra. So he did.

Argh, dual pricing again. If anyone has an answer for that that doesn't boil down to "racism", I'd like to hear it. Anyway, I'm at least immune to that now that I have a work permit. At 300 B it's not exactly cheap, but sort of a once-in-a-lifetime sort of deal. It's a massive place, and we spent quite a few hours there with our friend, Niece. We rode bikes and took in the (tiny) sights. I especially liked the market with homemade Thai whiskey. At 50 B a bottle, it's a steal and made the day oh so enjoyable. Overall though, nice place. It definitely has a lot to see and do, although it is kind of far to get out to. There's not much on the internet about it, I suppose because it's a whole day affair. I think this could be a pretty major tourist attraction if it was closer to the city. It's remarkably well done overall, and lets you "experience" all the sights of Thailand from the comfort of a golf cart, if you so choose.

As to be expected, Christmas is not a thing here, outside of a cash grab from expats. It always seems to surprise people when I say I don't get time off for it. I mean, in the US do you get time off for Songkran? Chinese New Year? When 99.9% of the people are Buddhist, it doesn't really have the appeal. That being said, I am a total liar and this year, I do have time off. As are the perks (perhaps the only perk) of working at a Catholic school, we get a little over a week off. Which means, I'm off to sunny, beautiful, China!

Maybe you've seen the recent news reports of Beijing being covered in smog, but I'm not going anywhere near there. In fact, the place I'm going is much closer to Thailand than it is Beijing. I'm visiting Yunan Province, not far from the border of Laos / Myanmar. Definitely off the tourist path, normally I don't think it would be somewhere people would go unless they're in the area. I'm going because that's where Ella is from, so I get a chance to see her hometown. A "small city", Qujing has roughly 2 million people. If you put that in the US, it would be the 5th largest city after Houston. In China, it's medium sized. When I lived in Hangzhou, just the district I was in was 1.1 million. The district I could bike across. So, I'm interested in how Qujing "feels", because it's so far away from Hangzhou (2000 km) and Beijing (2500 km) it may as well be another country. It will also really be a test of my Chinese ability, as her family speaks no English and I'm not expecting anyone in the city to. But on the plus side, I get to eat all the boazi I want.

Delicious, delicious boazi.